• 1719

    On the props list that was sent home recently for the 6th-grade production of "Annie" going up in a couple of weeks was "Tattered Rag Dolls 2 or 3".  I thought to myself, "I bet I could make rag dolls that look like they belong to orphans!" so I poked around on eBay for "1930s rag dolls" and came up with a number of ideas, and searching generally for free patterns brought a few more.  I chose a range of models and patterns because I wanted the dolls to look like they'd been made by different people, and possibly at quite different times.

    I even managed to use all materials from my stash — even the stuffing, which is from an old pillow that I had thrown out literally the day before and then rescued from the bin! (and washed, of course!)

    1684

    The first one was based on a couple of eBay vintage dolls, and used the rag doll pattern from Allcraftsblogs.com. I couldn't open the PDF file, so I just cut-and-pasted the pattern, and sized the body up to about 7 inches, and the arms and legs proportionately.  This one has the most shaping of the three, and with the limbs being separate was a bit more fiddly, as it turned out, but not at all difficult.

    1685

    Her hair is fine black wool (from Super Yarn Mart, so that might tell you how long it has been in my stash!).  I wound a long length of the wool around a book, to what looked like "enough", then carefully spread the mass across a strip of fabric, then machine-sewed along the strip with black thread to make the "part", then hand-sewed the hair to the doll's head.  This took a bit of fiddling, and I had to trim the base strip and color it with black laundry marker to keep it from showing through, but it worked pretty well.  I trimmed the ends of the yarn after I did the two braids — it seemed safer that way.

    1721

    She has very shapely calves, and the feet are, for a rag doll, quite elegant I think.

    1717

    I ended up making her bodice fully lined, because facings at this scale were far too fiddly.

    1720

    Her face is drawn on with ballpoint pen, which has a faux-faded look already.  I am not very good drawing faces.

    1689

    The second doll was based quite thoroughly on a vintage original, with the pattern half-improvised and half the Simple Doll Pattern from Doll Chamber.  I thought it was interesting how much size was "lost" with stuffing, even this one which I wanted to be much softer than the first one. 

    I made the neck too long — it flopped very disconcertingly — and because I was lazy I didn't bother making a new body, but just tucked in the original one until it was as short as I could get it.  It's still floppy, but at least more of a "baby" floppy than otherwise.  These joints are simply machine-sewn across after stuffing.

    1714

    1713

    The face and hair are embroidered with three strands of floss, based fairly closely on the original folk-art doll.  I couldn't decide from the seller's photographs if the original doll's hair was chain stitch or outline stitch, or maybe a combination of the two, so I just used chain stitch.  I used two slightly different shades of blond floss so that it would look "faded".  The eyelashes are blanket stitch, the pupils satin stitch and the rest outline stitch.  I was impressed by the artists' trick of the dab of pink in the corners of the eyes on the original doll!

    The original doll has a safety pin at the back of its romper, too —

    1712

    The third doll was an utter failure on three attempts, and ended up back in the rag bag (do not make the arms too narrow, trust me!), but the fourth one, from a pattern at Nadene's Practical Pages, went together quite easily.  I did modify the pattern by adding a quarter-inch seam allowance all around, and omitting the armature — as a result, the body was much simpler, and finished in about an hour.

    1691

    This one is also based fairly exactly on a vintage original, but didn't turn out quite as appealing as the original for some reason.  It went together relatively easily, though, as I sewed the pieces of the dress straight onto the body, first the bodice, then the skirt, then the waistband.

    1715

    This is the back, although really you can only tell because of the seam in the waistband, since I left her face blank like the original doll's.  The dress is made from an old shirt of David's that was frayed at the hems and collar, but I liked the fabric so much that I saved it.  The skirt is one of the shirt sleeves, partly because it was already hemmed but mostly because the hem was already worn through in places.  Except for this hem, the dress is completely hand-sewn!  I made two basic T-shapes for the bodice and sleeves, and gathered it a little at the waist — sewing it directly onto the doll — then "pleated" the skirt and sewed it down, then folded a strip for the waistband and sewed that on top of the join between skirt and bodice.

    1709

    So these are the dollies before "aging".  The girls kind of laughed when I said I wanted them to get the dolls dirty — like "is she serious? get stuff dirty on purpose?" — and I had to actually throw the baby doll on the ground as Laura and I were walking across the school field the other day, and tell her to kick it as we walked.  (I heard other kids saying to each other in disbelief, "She's kicking that doll!")  That didn't get it really dirty, to my surprise, so yesterday I filled a dishpan full of coffee and soaked the baby doll and the plaid-dress one, and the clothes of the pigtailed one in that for about half an hour.  (The pigtailed doll is stuffed fairly hard, and I was afraid she wouldn't dry fully before Tuesday.  Her hair wouldn't survive the washing-machine or dryer either, I suspect.)  I had also bleached the striped dress to fade it.

    (I also, I confess, stomped heartlessly on the pigtailed doll after I threw her down onto the deck in the back yard.  That got it dirty.)

    It was interesting how differently the fabrics were affected by the coffee.  The pigtailed doll's petticoat looks quite ancient now, but the plaid-dress doll — who was bleached-white muslin to start — is only a pale ecru.

    1716

    It's a hard-knock life ….

  • 1694

    I'm having a kind of love/hate relationship with this wrap. 

    I don't much like Kidsilk Haze. I can see the appeal of the finished product, but knitting with it is rather unpleasant.  I found not one but two knots in the first ball, and at $15 apiece (for just 25g!) the stuff is far too expensive to have to contend with knots, let alone multiple ones. 

    1700

    The pattern is the Kid Mohair Wrap from Susan Cropper's Pretty Knits: 30 Designs from Loop in London of 2007, reprinted in "Canadian Living"As I've said before, in my previous attempt at knitting this, there are a few errors, though perhaps only of judgement, in the pattern as printed in "Canadian Living", and one howler, which was in the amount of yarn needed to complete the wrap.  Two balls is not nearly enough for a full-sized wrap.

    One ball would have got to about 25 in. long, which was 6 1/2 repeats of the crossed-eyelet stitch — the pattern assumes that you will get 18 repeats total plus the two knot-stitch borders, so that one ball would be 9 repeats of the crossed-eyelet, a serious underestimate in my opinion.

    There is as far as I can tell no errata page for this book at Potter Craft. I can sort of understand why a publisher might not want to admit that a book has mistakes, but frankly I don't think it serves them well in the long run.  It certainly only makes me frustrated and annoyed that I cannot find an errata page on their website.

    The dimensions given in the pattern are 30×60 in. (76×142 cm) blocked, with 2 balls of Kidsilk Haze.  I found that 3 balls blocked assertively but not aggressively to 27×75 in., which was 21 repeats of the crossed-eyelet stitch.  I have never tried blocking wires, but would recommend that anyone working this wrap consider them.  Even getting the piece to this size was a trial, and after an hour of pinning and stretching, I was beginning to long for some nails and pieces of lumber.

    Shetland lace

    After relaxing a bit, when I laid it out for the photo and did a quick measurement, it is about 24×72 inches.

    1703

    That said, it's a very pretty wrap.  The lace patterns go together very nicely — I like that the knot section is garter-based, while the border and middle sections are stockinette-based.  Much of the apparent cumbersomeness of the written pattern is because the border pattern is "attached" to the center pattern in the instructions, so that this way the knitter does not have to contend with juggling two separate charts, and trying to remember "am I on Row 4 of the border and Row 10 of the middle, or Row 4 of the middle and Row 10 of the border??" 

    1706

    I really liked the mirror-image of the wave border, but was perplexed that the pattern as written didn't take advantage of the "waviness" with the decreases going in the right directions.  So here are my corrections and amendments:

    SSSK (my own un-vention): An SSK with three stitches instead of two.

    Row 3: Sl 1 purl-wise, [K2tog, yo] twice, K2, SSSK, K5, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, K5, K3tog, K2, [yo, K2tog] twice, K1. (86 sts)

    Row 5: Sl 1 purl-wise, [K2tog, yo] twice, K2, SSK, K4, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, k4, K2tog, K2, [yo, K2tog] twice, K1. (84 sts)

    Row 7: Sl 1 purl-wise, [K2tog, yo] twice, K2, SSK, K3, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, K3, K2tog, K2, [yo, K2tog] twice, K1. (82 sts)

    Row 9: Sl 1 purl-wise, [K2tog, yo] twice, K2, SSK, K2, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, K2, K2tog, K2, [yo, K2tog] twice, K1. (80 sts)

    Row 11: Sl 1 purl-wise, K1, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, K2, SSK, K1, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, K1, K2tog, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2tog, yo, K2. (82 sts)

    Row 31: Sl 1 purl-wise, [K2tog, yo] twice, K2, SSSK, K5, slip marker, *P1, K1, [skpo, yo] 3 times, K1, P1, repeat from * 5 times, slip marker, K5, K3tog, K2, [yo, K2tog] twice, K1. (86 sts)

    Row 33: Sl 1 purl-wise, [K2tog, yo] twice, K2, SSK, K4, slip marker, *P1, K1, [skpo, yo] 3 times, K1, P1, repeat from * 5 times, slip marker, K4, K2tog, K2, [yo, K2tog] twice, K1. (84 sts)

    Row 35: Sl 1 purl-wise, [K2tog, yo] twice, K2, SSK, K3, slip marker, *P1, [skpo, yo] 3 times, K2, P1, repeat from * 5 times, slip marker, K3, K2tog, K2, [yo, K2tog] twice, K1. (82 sts)

    Row 37: Sl 1 purl-wise, [K2tog, yo] twice, K2, SSK, K2, slip marker, *P1, K1, [skpo, yo] twice, K3, P1, repeat from * 5 times, slip marker, K2, K2tog, K2, [yo, K2tog] twice, K1. (80 sts)

    Row 39: Sl 1 purl-wise, K1, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, K2, SSK, K1, slip marker, *P1, C4B, K4, P1, repeat from * 5 times, slip marker, K1, K2tog, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2tog, yo, K2. (82 sts)

    [Edited, thanks to the eagle eyes of Emily, who spotted a typo! — 19 February 2016]

    I would have found it more helpful to give the number of stitches in the wave borders outside of the markers than the total number of stitches in a given row, but I haven't changed that here.

    1697

    And for more personal recommendations:

    I omitted Row 308 (the last row), as I thought it better matched the beginning of the wrap to not have an extra "plain" row there.

    The bind-off given in the pattern was far too tight, even worked very loosely, so I used the suspended bind-off instead:

    Suspended bind off - knitting daily

    Slip one stitch, knit one stitch, *insert left needle tip into first stitch on right needle and lift the first st over the second (Figure 1), leaving the first stitch on the left needle, knit the next stitch (Figure 2), then slip both stitches off the left needle-two stitches remain on right needle and one stitch has been bound off (Figure 3). Repeat from * until no stitches remain on left needle, then pass first st on right needle over the second.  (The image has been lifted from Knitting Daily's helpful glossary.)

    IMG_1646

    I was going for length over width in my blocking, as I was concerned that it wouldn't be long enough to be comfortable for the wearer — but I found that hard blocking rather spoiled the "fluffiness" of the knot stitch, so if it is not an issue, 4 balls and a much less assertive blocking might be preferable. 

    This is, by the way, forty hours of knitting!

    1702

  • Chinese New Year

    0660 small

    Red fitted t-shirts from Michael's, with iron-on Chinese dragons from Dritz-Prym (no. 2909).

    Gung hei fat choy!

  • 3868

    Well, after twenty-five hours of knitting, I decided to block the Kid Mohair Wrap — still on the needles — and see what I've got. 

    This is eighteen repeats of the "crossed eyelet" stitch, which the pattern says is what is in the accompanying photo.  If I added the knot-stitch border at the end now, my finished wrap would be only 53 inches long, so I can only assume that the "2 balls" in the pattern is a mistake for "3", as going by this test-blocking three balls of Kidsilk Haze will make it almost exactly 60 inches, the target length in the pattern.

    3881

    Note that I could not reasonably get a 30-inch wide piece, so this is about 27 inches.  Pulling it harder would of course make the length even less.  It is obviously pretty fiercely blocked in the pattern's photo —

    Kid mohair wrap

    But now 60 inches seems a bit stingy for a wrap to me.  If I use the fourth ball, it would be around 80 inches, which is probably too much.  Is 70-75 inches a good length for a wrap?  I've been going through the dresser drawers, pulling out scarves and stoles and even bath towels, and draping them around my shoulders, and still can't decide.  Any advice?

  • 3843

    David e-mailed the other day saying that the Company-Which-Shall-Not-Be-Named is sending him to the Netherlands on the 11th.  (I must admit that I was hoping more than a little that at least one of us — cough! me! cough — would be allowed to go with him, but alas, no, it is far too short a trip this time around.)  But it is cold in the Netherlands in the middle of January!  So I started planning a pair of knitted mitts for him, and thought of this leftover bit of Trekking XXL from my "1810 Socks" a couple of years back, which socks are in fact one of the warmest pairs I've knitted, so it was lucky that the color is a fairly subdued and not-unmanly one.  I finished them in 48 hours — pretty good, if I may say so myself.  This is about 49g of the leftovers, with still a bit left from that.

    And he got his passport renewed and back in his hands in a week, to our astonishment!

    3861

    I'm also having another go at the infamous "Kid Mohair Wrap" that I gave up on the last time around.  This time I have four balls of Kidsilk Haze, here in 634, a gentle cream color.  I am already doubting my math, though that may just be nerves.  Talking of time, I am keeping track of how long it takes to knit this, as I intend to donate it to my choir's annual raffle — six hours to get this far, through the bottom border and one repeat of the center pattern.  Seventeen more repeats to go, and then the top border!  Wish me luck!

  • 3858

    This is the "Long Flowers Panel" from Sandra Whitehead's book Celtic, Medieval and Tudor Wall Hangings in 1/12 Scale Needlepoint.  I liked it very much from the photo in the book, but I like the real thing even better — the colors are a little deeper and richer in person.  These colors are exactly the same DMC floss as recommended, except that I chose a slightly earthier cream than the ecru — the palest shade, in the centers of most of the flowers.

    3847

    This piece was a bit of a challenge, as I could not get 24-count evenweave canvas at Michael's, not even for ready money, so I got 28-count instead — even finer, of course.  My finished piece is thus 3.8 x 10 cm with the edging.  I had trouble seeing it sometimes, even with two (!) pairs of glasses on.  I'm not entirely pleased with my stitching, though a light pressing did wonders for the evenness.  I missed a lot of stitches and had to go back and put them in one at a time, and I made two glaring-to-me mistakes, one in picking up the lighter blue instead of the darker, and the other in not noticing that the twisted-rope border became grey-brown for a moment, not black — I left the blue where it was, as I couldn't face picking it out at that stage, but I stitched over the black mistake with the grey-brown, which was only partially successful, as the black does "bleed" through a bit.  (Probably the blue would have been all right if I'd stitched over it, since it is two shades of the same color — I was concerned about it being too thick at this fine gauge, but the black/grey-brown bit seems fine.)  But I am so utterly charmed by the piece that it doesn't matter that much.

    3859

    Whitehead suggests finishing by folding the edges of the canvas and backing it with a piece of light cotton.  I used another method with more finished edges, though, following Janet Granger's excellent tutorial on miniature wall-hangings — this uses a whipped edging.  Since my piece was so narrow, I decided not to cover the back with iron-on interfacing, as Granger does, and simply enclosed it with the turned edges of the canvas (judiciously dabbed with Fray-Check).  My whip-stitching is also rather amateur — oh, I see one long stitch! — but again, the piece is so charming that I am quite delighted with it anyway.

    3856

    (I still have to add hanging loops to the top.  Next time I might try mitering the corners of the hem.)

    A kit of this piece can also be found, as the "Tudor Long Panel", on Whitehead's website, Knighttime Miniatures.  There are a number of other interesting pieces in the book — many of which are also available as kits from the website — all original designs based on mediaeval and Tudor sources, mostly "tapestries" for the miniature setting.  The charts come in both color and symbol versions, which I find very handy, as I seem to work better from the symbol charts, but the color ones give a good overview of how things will come together.

    Yes, I am planning an Elizabethan doll's-house …!

    3855

  • Twelfth Night

    Rylance twelfth night

    "Daylight and champaign discovers not more: this is open. I will be proud, I will read politic authors, I will baffle Sir Toby, I will wash off gross acquaintance, I will be point-devise the very man. I do not now fool myself, to let imagination jade me; for every reason excites to this, that my lady loves me. She did commend my yellow stockings of late, she did praise my leg being cross-gartered; and in this she manifests herself to my love, and with a kind of injunction drives me to these habits of her liking. I thank my stars I am happy. I will be strange, stout, in yellow stockings, and cross-gartered, even with the swiftness of putting on. Jove and my stars be praised!"

    Malvolio — played by the inestimable Stephen Fry — convincing himself that Olivia loves him, while Sir Toby Belch (Colin Hurley), Sir Andrew Aguecheek (Angus Wright), and Fabian (Jethro Skinner) eavesdrop, in the recent production at the Belasco Theatre on West 44th Street in New York, originally performed at the Globe in 2012.. 

  • 3835-2

    There is a tradition that what you do on New Year's Day is an indication of what you will do throughout the coming year.  Perhaps unsurprisingly, I did a lot of mom things — schlepping Julia back and forth to her riding lesson (the horses don't care that it's a holiday!), chores, grocery shopping, cooking. 

    1503

    I also — hurray! — did some needlework, both on the first of a pair of Selbu-ish mitts for Laura, whose school trip to Washington DC is at the end of March.  I could hardly let her go that far without some handknits.  I made a Three-Rib Beret which I gave to her for Christmas, and now am working on mitts with the same color — which is Lorna's Laces' "Blackberry", possibly one of the most delicious purples ever — so that they will almost match but not quite.  I'm not as far along as I expected to be, since the first mitt was just a smidge too small, and I've pulled it out and restarted the colorwork section with a few more stitches, rebalancing the pattern and making some adjustments.

    3838

    I also continued working on this, which is the "Long Flowers Panel" from Sandra Whitehead's first book of miniature needlepoint projects, Celtic, Medieval and Tudor Wall Hangings in 1/12 Scale Needlepoint.  Fate, I tell you — the book was in a public library not more than fifteen minutes' drive from my house.  I have for a very long time been fascinated by doll's-houses, as I've said before, and I was so pleased with the house we made for Laura that it has never been far from my mind to make one for myself.  Since needlework is at present far easier than woodworking — not to mention more portable — I am starting with that.  Oh! but it's tiny.  This center section is barely 3 cm wide, and I have to wear extra glasses to see the stitches.  Michael's had all of the floss colors recommended in the pattern, but not 24-count evenweave canvas, so this is 28-count.  But I must say it's fascinating, and I'm enjoying it immensely, despite having found four missed stitches already!

    And I read, too! staying up a little too late, perhaps, but I was enjoying it — the first of Susannah Stacey's (aka Jill Staynes and Margaret Storey) Inspector Bone series of murder mysteries, Goodbye, Nanny Gray.  I was so disappointed to find that our public library had recently weeded all of this series that I bought three of them for a penny apiece off of Amazon a month or so ago.  Douglas Henshall's character in "Collison" a few years ago reminded me very much of Bone, an engaging detective coping with a tragic recent past, and rereading them now I tend to see him in the part, which can't be a bad thing.  The books are an easy read but intelligent, and I like the way that Bone's and his daughter Charlotte's stories are emerging very slowly throughout, so that you get to know them over time instead of all in a rush.

    Happy New Year!

  • 1501

    I was going to do an in-progress post on this, then I turned around and it was done.  It's taken me longer to get the photos than to knit the thing!

    1499

    It isn't really very often that I can wear handknits here in Southern California, other than socks of course — so I have lots of scarves and shawls.  It occurred to me recently, in one of those "duh" moments, that I should have more slipovers and vests in my wardrobe.  No, I shall call it "serendipity" instead — much nicer — since I was browsing some recent issues of Knitty that I hadn't seen, and was looking straight at the Sinnesfrid vest by Madeleine Nilsson when I thought, "well, yeah, vests –"  I had already had my eye on Wendy Barnard's Splash vest for a while, and so I bought the yarn for both the next day.

    1467

    The yarn is 3 skeins of Malabrigo Rios in 412 "Teal Feather".  This is a lovely color, though not really one that I would have chosen to actually wear, being drawn to less saturated colors, I guess — but there wasn't much choice at Jimmy Beans as the yarn seems in short supply, and I can understand that, as it is very pleasant to knit with indeed.  (Even Laura, not especially fond of handknits, said as she was helping me wind a skein, "This is nice yarn.")  It knits up beautifully, very even, with just a gentle color variation throughout the fabric.  There were knots in every skein — one had two knots and a rather indifferent splice, all within an arm's-length of each other — but other than that I would be happy to use it again.

    1469

    The pattern is quite easy to follow, and I had only two slight hiccups as it went along — one was just past the point where you have cast on for the armholes, and the waffly-rib stitch doesn't quite line up as it has been doing.  This is all right, since even though it doesn't line up, after a few more rows you can't really tell.  Just don't look down, and you'll be fine.  The other part was also to do with the waffle-rib not lining up, just towards the end of the waist shaping. Just into the bottom border you increase a few more stitches, but instead of working a "p2, sl m, k2" as Row 2 has you do to accommodate the increases into the waffle-rib, I just did "p1, k1, p1, k1" and thought it looked a little less obvious.  A very minor cavil, certainly. 

    1455

    1457

    I did choose to sew the front together, since I was pretty sure that with my figure and the negative ease I wanted with this vest, the button closure would pull rather unattractively.  The buttons are just plain La Mode mother-of-pearl buttons (#1651).

    1498

    I am astonished and delighted that in fact I did not take it off after the "photo shoot" this afternoon, since it was chilly enough to appreciate the wool.  Autumn is coming at last!

  • 1486

    I bought this cross-stitch Navajo rug design at one of the gift shops at Mesa Verde this summer, pleased to find a needlework souvenir and delighted that it would look charming in Laura's dollhouse.

    1452

    The kit is "Burntwater II" from NP Designs — there were a number of different designs of various styles and colors available.  Everything is included in the kit but a hoop, and the chart is very easy to read, despite the relative complexity of the design.  It would have been even easier, of course, if I hadn't mistaken one of the pale blue-grey shades for another and realized that I would have to pick out the entire center medallion and redo it — sigh — but I managed to finish it in a little over six weeks.

    There is a sheet of instructions and tips, one of which was to use three strands of the floss — "if you prefer, you can work the kit with 2 strands but it will not look as dense" — and another of which was to separate each strand, then put the three back together, to reduce the floss's tendency to twist.  This being really only my second major cross-stitch project, I used the three strands as recommended, but I wonder if the result wasn't quite as even as my "Gather Ye Rosebuds" picture because the three strands tended to crowd each other, as it were, competing for the space in that tiny hole.  I also tried the separating-the-strands technique, but after picking out my center medallion mistake, I decided not to do it the second time around — the technique may have helped with the twisting, but like that third strand, it seemed to make the floss "fluffier" so that it didn't lie as smoothly as I would have liked.

    There are no instructions in the kit about finishing — I suppose they assume that you are going to frame it, not use it in a doll's-house — so I had to look elsewhere.  Whipping the edges as the doyenne of doll's-house carpets, Janet Granger, does in her excellent tutorial, did not in fact work here — I guess because of this Aida canvas being such different proportions of threads-to-holes than the interlock she has used for her tent-stitched carpets — my canvas showed through quite a lot.  Instead I used the long-legged cross stitch recommended by Sue Hawkins in her Dolls House Do-It-Yourself Carpets and Rugs, which when pulled snugly tends to pull the edge under quite nicely for folding, exactly as she says it will.

    1493

    This finish has a beautiful braided effect, and turned out very nicely, I think.

    I tacked down the trimmed edges of the canvas with herringbone stitch, which I decided to work staggered, in case any of it showed on the right side — don't know if this was at all necessary, actually.  (I didn't starch the carpet, though, as Hawkins recommends.  It doesn't really seem to need it.)

    1488

    I must admit that working this really brought home how poor my eyesight is getting — after stitching happily for a few days, I took a really close look at it and saw any number of stitches where I'd just missed the hole, and the leg of an X here and there was a bit longer on one side than the rest, or that I'd completely missed crossing some at all and had to go back for just half a stitch!  I left one of them in on purpose — it's doll's-house "wear and tear" now!  I ended up wearing two pairs of my drugstore reading glasses now and then, or a pair over my regular glasses — David thought this was hilarious, but then he doesn't have to wear glasses at all, so he would, wouldn't he.

    1489

    Laura doesn't seem to be as interested in the house as I am, though, so — well, I have it in my room, now.

    I need to make a sink, I see, and a dresser more to scale …

    1491